Pasta with Broccoli Rabe and Portobello Mushrooms

It's CSA season again! This is our first year with the UUCC CSA, supplied by the Fellenz Family Farm but in the past, we've been a part of the Fellenz CSA distributed from Geneva, as well as Peacework Farm's CSA based in Newark .

Monday was the first distribution day, delayed from May 19th due the cool spring's effect on the veggies. Typical of the early weeks in the season, we received a share chock-full of greens -- mizuna, tat soi, a lettuce that's name I'm blanking on, wild garlic, and broccoli rabe, plus a few stalks of rhubarb thrown in for good measure.

Along with the greens was a note from our farmer, Andy Fellenz, explaining how things are doing on the farm. (I'm going to have a chance to check things out for myself on Sunday during my farm work shift.) Andy also supplied a fantastic recipe for Pasta with Broccoli Rabe (aka, rapini) and Portobellos. I've altered it only slightly to suit my tastes but the original is a winner -- fresh and bitter broccoli rabb is grounded by the meaty mushroom's flavor and everything is perked up by the addition of garlic, Parmesan and extra virgin olive oil. (I just polished off the last of it for lunch.)

The recipe is easily adaptable: you could swap out the rabe for spinach or another cooking green; use a different kind of mushroom; add more (or less) garlic or flavor things with different herbs; use vegetable broth instead of chicken for an entirely vegetarian meal; or leave out the pasta entirely for a strictly veggie dish.

So whatever variant you choose, head to the local farmers' market, roadside stand or make use of the goodies in your CSA share and get cooking. You won't be disappointed.


Pasta with Broccoli Rabe and Portobello Mushrooms

8 oz whole wheat spaghetti or linguine
2 Tbsp. olive oil
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
8 oz Portobello or cremini mushrooms, sliced
1 lb. broccoli rabe, cut into 1 inch pieces
1 ½ cups reduced sodium chicken or veggie broth, plus more if needed
Salt and pepper to taste
Pinch of dried red pepper flakes
1 to 2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
½ cup Parmesan or Pecorino cheese

Cook pasta until al dente, according to package directions.

While pasta is cooking, heat oil in a Dutch oven or large, deep skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and cook, stirring, about 20 seconds, making sure garlic does not brown.

Add mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, until browned and all liquid evaporates. Remove mushrooms from pan and set aside.

Return pan to heat and add broccoli rabe and broth. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until broccoli rabe is tender, about 8 minutes. If needed, add more broth while broccoli rabe cooks.

Add mushrooms and stir. Add salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes. Adjust seasons to taste; add drained pasta and extra virgin olive oil and toss until heated through. Top with cheese and serve.
Serves 4.

Sugar Plums Dancing in My Head, Ed. #3 (updated)

A short post this go-round:

Check out Ganda's thoughts on the Rachel Ray fracas entitled "Yum-O" is Arabic for "There is no God but Allah". Her post is funny, smart, and worth your time to read.

Hey, more ridiculous photoshopping! This time, Lancome Men airbrushes all of the sexy crags out of Clive Owen's face, rendering him unrecognizable. If nothing else, what's the point of having a celeb hawk your wears if the consumer can't recognize your A-list star? (Oh yes that, and the problem of continual media propaganda creating unrealistic body images for all!)

Way to ruin one of the great pleasures of summer, Newsweek. Why is it such a sin to eat silky, delicious, premium ice cream? To quote the humorous and intelligent ladies on Shapely Prose, OMG!!1! TEH FATZ! This article isn't about ice cream, it's about making people fear body fat, reviling it on themselves and others.
It wouldn't surprise me, however, if the article has the opposite effect on readers, because last night it inspired me to crave, then buy, eat and thoroughly enjoy its number one ranked "most fattening ice cream flavor," Häagen-Dazs' Chocolate Peanut Butter. To say it was fan-freaking-tastic would be a vast understatement. Viva la crème glacée!
On another note, how is this Newsweek piece even news?

Coming up on the blog very soon: recipes for Orange Scones with Rhubarb and Cherries, Rhubarb Chutney, and Broccoli Rabe and Portobello pasta.

UPDATE: I can't believe I forgot to post InfoMania's (via Shapely Prose) snarky take on advertising's presentation of yogurt and women. Enjoy!

White Chocolate Raspberry Opéra Cake: A Daring Bakers Challenge

When Lis, Ivonne, Fran and Shea announced this month's Daring Baker Challenge -- an opera cake sans the traditional coffee and dark chocolate flavors -- I was apprehensive.

What flavors should I use to make this my own?

How many steps in this recipe?

How many ingredients? How much will they cost?

How much time will I be in the kitchen?

But by god, it's all worth it -- the result is fantastic. From the cake's delicate crumb, to the richness of the chocolate mousse, to the buttercream bursting with freshness, this is a divine dessert. On top of all that, the opera cake is so elegant and beautiful, it's almost too beautiful to cut into. Almost.

If you look at the recipe below, chances are you'll be intimidated by it. It's very long and there are lots of elements to it. But let me let you in on a secret:

It's really not as difficult as it first appears.

Yes, there are lots of steps to make the five separate elements -- joconde cake, buttercream, syrup, mousse, and glaze -- but everything but the glaze can be done ahead of time and refrigerated, allowing you to make this in your own time.

So thank you Lis, Ivonne, Fran and Shea for a terrific challenge! As usual, the DBers have pushed me to keep learning and exploring in the kitchen. Check out the Daring Bakers Blogroll for hundreds of variations on the Opera Cake and stop by the Daring Bakers forum and say "hi!"




White Chocolate Raspberry Opéra Cake

If you don't like white chocolate, give Green & Black's white chocolate a try. It's not like other white chocolates; it's nicely flavored with vanilla bean, almost like the most premium vanilla ice cream transformed into a white chocolate bar. I highly recommend it, and used it throughout this recipe.

Elements of this Opéra Cake:

Joconde: The base of an Opéra Cake is a thin sponge cake that is made traditionally with almond meal (finely ground blanched almonds).

Syrup: The joconde is flavoured with a sugar syrup.

Buttercream: The first two layers of the joconde are covered in a rich buttercream. This particular buttercream is made with a syrup, eggs and butter.

Mousse: the final layer of the joconde is covered in a white chocolate mousse.

Glaze: The final step to an Opéra Cake is the glaze that gives the cake a very finished and elegant appearance.


Joconde
(Note: can be made up to 1 day in advance and kept wrapped at room temperate)

What you’ll need:
•2 12½ x 15½-inch (31 x 39-cm) jelly-roll pans (Note: You can use different-sized jelly-roll pans like 10 x 15-inches.)
•a few tablespoons of melted butter (in addition to what’s called for in the ingredients’ list) and a brush (to grease the pans)
•parchment paper
•a whisk and a paddle attachment for a stand mixer or for a handheld mixer
•two mixing bowls (you can make do with one but it’s preferable to have two)

Ingredients:
6 large egg whites, at room temperature
2 Tbsp. granulated sugar
2 cups ground blanched almonds
2 cups confectioners' sugar, sifted
6 large eggs
½ cup all-purpose flour
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1. Divide the oven into thirds by positioning a rack in the upper third of the oven and the lower third of the oven.

2.Preheat the oven to 425-degrees F.

3.Line two jelly-roll pans with parchment paper and brush with melted butter.

4.In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or using a handheld mixer), beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Add the granulated sugar and beat until the peaks are stiff and glossy. If you do not have another mixer bowl, gently scrape the meringue into another bowl and set aside.

5.If you only have one bowl, wash it after removing the egg whites or if you have a second bowl, use that one. Attach the paddle attachment to the stand mixer (or using a handheld mixer again) and beat the almonds, icing sugar and eggs on medium speed until light and voluminous, about 3 minutes.

6.Add the flour and beat on low speed until the flour is just combined (do NOT overmix ).

7.Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the meringue into the almond mixture and then fold in the melted butter. Divide the batter between the pans and spread it evenly to cover the entire surface of each pan.

8.Bake the cake layers until they are lightly browned and just springy to the touch. This could take anywhere from 5 to 9 minutes depending on your oven. Place one jelly-roll pan in the middle of the oven and the second jelly-roll pan in the bottom third of the oven.

9.Put the pans on a heatproof counter and run a sharp knife along the edges of the cake to loosen it from the pan. Cover each with a sheet of parchment or wax paper, turn the pans over, and unmold.

10.Carefully peel away the parchment, then turn the parchment over and use it to cover the cakes. Let the cakes cool to room temperature.


Almond Vanilla syrup
(Note: The syrup can be made up to 1 week in advance and kept covered in the refrigerator.)

What you’ll need:

•a small saucepan

Ingredients:

½ cup water
⅓ cup granulated sugar
1 Tbsp vanilla
1 Tbsp. almond extract

1.Stir all the syrup ingredients together in the saucepan and bring to a boil.

2.Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.


White Chocolate Mousse
(Note: The mousse can be made ahead and refrigerated until you’re ready to use it.)

What you’ll need:

•a small saucepan
•a mixer or handheld mixer

Ingredients:

7 ounces Green & Black’s white chocolate, chopped
1 cup plus 3 tbsp. heavy cream (35% cream)
1 Tbsp. cognac (optional)


1.Melt the white chocolate and the 3 tbsp. of heavy cream in a small saucepan.

2.Stir to ensure that it’s smooth and that the chocolate is melted. Add the tablespoon of liqueur to the chocolate and stir. Set aside to cool completely.

3.In the bowl of a stand mixer, whip the remaining 1 cup of heavy cream until soft peaks form.

4.Gently fold the whipped cream into the cooled chocolate to form a mousse.

5.If it’s too thin, refrigerate it for a bit until it’s spreadable.

6.If you’re not going to use it right away, refrigerate until you’re ready to use.



Fresh Raspberry Buttercream
(Note: you may refrigerate it for up to 4 days after making it; simply bring it to room temperature and then beat it briefly to restore its consistency before using.)

What you’ll need:

•a small saucepan
•a candy or instant-read thermometer
•a stand mixer or handheld mixer
•a bowl and a whisk attachment
•rubber spatula

Ingredients:

1 cup granulated sugar
¼ cup water
1 tbsp. pure vanilla extract
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1¾ sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 1/2 cups fresh raspberries (for a smoother buttercream, puree berries and strain out the seeds)

1.Combine the sugar, water and vanilla bean seeds or extract in a small saucepan and warm over medium heat just until the sugar dissolves.

2.Continue to cook, without stirring, until the syrup reaches 225◦F (107◦C) [*Note: Original recipe indicates a temperature of 255◦F (124◦C), however, when testing the recipe I found that this was too high so we heated to 225◦F and it worked fine] on a candy or instant-read thermometer. Once it reaches that temperature, remove the syrup from the heat.

3.While the syrup is heating, begin whisking the egg and egg yolk at high speed in the bowl of your mixer using the whisk attachment. Whisk them until they are pale and foamy.

4.When the sugar syrup reaches the correct temperature and you remove it from the heat, reduce the mixer speed to low speed and begin slowly (very slowly) pouring the syrup down the side of the bowl being very careful not to splatter the syrup into the path of the whisk attachment. Some of the syrup will spin onto the sides of the bowl but don’t worry about this and don’t try to stir it into the mixture as it will harden!

5.Raise the speed to medium-high and continue beating until the eggs are thick and satiny and the mixture is cool to the touch (about 5 minutes or so).

6.While the egg mixture is beating, place the softened butter in a bowl and mash it with a spatula until you have a soft creamy mass.

7.With the mixer on medium speed, begin adding in two-tablespoon chunks. When all the butter has been incorporated, raise the mixer speed to high and beat until the buttercream is thick and shiny.

8. At this point, add the raspberries and beat for an additional minute or so. If needed, add a few tablespoons of confectioners' sugar to thicken.

9.Refrigerate the buttercream, stirring it often, until it’s set enough (firm enough) to spread when topped with a layer of cake (about 20 minutes).


White Chocolate Glaze
(Note: It’s best to make the glaze right when you’re ready to finish the cake.)

What you’ll need:

•a small saucepan or double boiler

Ingredients:

14 ounces Green & Black’s white chocolate, coarsely chopped
3/4 cup heavy cream (35% cream)

1.Melt the white chocolate with the heavy cream. Whisk the mixture gently until smooth.
2.Let cool for 10 minutes and then pour over the chilled cake. Using a long metal cake spatula, smooth out into an even layer.
3.Place the cake into the refrigerator for 30 minutes to set.


Assembling the Opéra Cake

(Note: The finished cake should be served slightly chilled. It can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 1 day).

Line a baking sheet with parchment or wax paper.

Working with one sheet of cake at a time, cut and trim each sheet so that you have two pieces (from each cake so you’ll have four pieces in total): one 10-inch (25-cm) square and one 10 x 5-inch (25 x 12½-cm) rectangle.

Place one square of cake on the baking sheet and moisten it gently with the flavoured syrup.

Spread about two-thirds of the buttercream over this layer.

Top with the two rectangular pieces of cake, placing them side by side, to form a square. Moisten these pieces with the flavoured syrup.

Spread the remaining buttercream on the cake and then top with the third square of joconde. Use the remaining syrup to wet the joconde and then refrigerate until very firm (at least half an hour).

Spread the mousse on the top of the last layer of the joconde. Refrigerate for at least two to three hours to give the mousse the opportunity to firm up.

Make the glaze. After it has cooled for 10 minutes, pour/spread it over the top of the chilled cake. (Use an offset spatula to help spread the glaze, but you'll get the smoothest appearance from allowing gravity to spread the glaze as much as possible.) Return to the refrigerator to allow the glaze to set for at least 30 minutes.

Finishing the cake: using a sharp serrated bread knife, dip the knife into very hot (if not boiling) water, and wipe dry. Using a gentle sawing motion, trip the edges of the cake for a clean-cut appearance. Decorate the cake's top with fresh raspberries dipped in melted white chocolate.

Serve the cake slightly chilled.

Yields approximately 20 servings.

On Vacation

Shane, the kids and I are in Florida visiting my parents, so there won't be much action here until late next week. (I think everyone is waiting on me so we can head to Sanibel Island...)

Have a terrific Memorial Day weekend.

Cheesy Bread Bakers & the Gruyere-Stuffed Crusty Bread

You know what's irresistible?

Homemade bread fresh from the oven, and stuffed with ooey-gooey melted cheese.

How do I know this? Because the Cheesy Bread Bakers -- Helen, Ivonne, Kelly, Lisa, Mary, Sara, Stephanie and me -- gave the French Pastry School’s Gruyère-Stuffed Crusty Loaves recipe (found by Mary on the King Arthur Flour blog) a go last weekend. (Go look and see how beautifully their loaves turned out!)

We were not disappointed. This is a bread you have to tear into as soon as it comes out of the oven because it looks and smells so wondrous. First-degree cheese burns are but a small obstacle to overcome in the pursuit of deliciousness. Shane, Jenny and I ate our way through two "mini" loves (which were, by no means, actually mini) in under 10 minutes. I sent one loaf home with Jen and the final loaf will be devoured tonight at dinner.

I am so glad I got to bake in tandem (via skype) with these talented bakers; not only did I get to bake a fantastic bread and pick up some baking tips, I got to know these lovely, caring, kind and talented women a bit better. Yay food bloggers and yay cheesy bread!

Gruyère-Stuffed Crusty Loaves (click here for step-by-step photos)

Starter
1 1/4 cups (5 1/4 ounces) King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon instant yeast
1/2 cup (4 ounces) cool water

Dough
all of the starter
1 cup + 2 tablespoons (9 ounces) to 1 1/4 cups (10 ounces) lukewarm water*
1 teaspoon salt
3 1/2 cups (14 3/4 ounces) King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour
1/2 teaspoon instant yeast

*Use the greater amount of water in winter, when conditions are dry; and the lesser amount in summer, when the weather is humid.

Filling
2 1/2 cups (10 ounces) grated Gruyère cheese, or the grated/shredded cheese of your choice


To make the starter: Mix the 1 1/4 cups flour, salt, yeast, and 1/2 cup water in a medium-sized bowl. Mix till well combined. (Note: it may look a rather dry. -- LR) Cover and let rest overnight at room temperature.

To make the dough: Combine the risen starter with the water, salt, flour, and yeast. Knead—by hand, mixer, or bread machine set on the dough cycle—to make a smooth dough. Place it in a lightly greased bowl, cover, and let it rise for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, till it’s nearly doubled in bulk.

Gently deflate the dough, and pat and stretch it into a ¾"-thick rectangle, about 9" x 12". Spritz with water, and sprinkle with the grated cheese. Starting with a long side, roll it into a log, pinching the seam to seal. Place the log, seam-side down, on a lightly floured or lightly oiled surface. Cover it and let it rise for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, till it’s puffy though not doubled in bulk. Towards the end of the rising time, preheat the oven to 425°F.

Gently cut the log into four crosswise slices, for mini-breads; or simply cut the dough in half, for two normal-sized loaves. Place them on one (for two loaves) or two (for four mini-loaves) lightly greased or parchment-lined baking sheets, cut side up. Spread them open a bit, if necessary, to more fully expose the cheese. Spritz with warm water, and immediately place them in the preheated oven. Bake for 20 minutes (for the mini-loaves), or 35 minutes (for the full-sized loaves), or until the cheese is melted and the loaves are a very deep golden brown. Remove them from the oven, and cool on a rack.

Yield: four mini-loaves or two standard-size loaves.

Coffee-Nut Scones

These are I-can't-believe-how-moist-these-scones-are scones. They've got a good coffee flavor, but as someone who likes sweets, I'd probably add an additional 1/3 cup of sugar. Three tablespoons of nuts doesn't do too much either.

Still, this would be an easy recipe to adapt: take out the coffee granules, cinnamon and nuts, and toss in orange extract and/or zest along with a some dried cranberries -- yum.

Coffee-Nut Scones (slightly adapted from Cooking Light)

2/3 c. skim or 1-percent milk
2 1/2 Tbsp. instant coffee granules
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 c. sugar
2 1/2 tsps. baking powder
3/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 cup (4 Tbsp.) chilled butter, cut into small pieces
3 Tbsp. finely chopped pecans or walnuts
Cooking spray
2 Tbsp. skim or 1-percent milk
2 Tbsp. sugar

Combine 2/3 cup milk and the coffee granules in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave at high 1 minute; stir until coffee dissolves. Cover and chill completely. Stir in vanilla and egg.

Preheat oven to 425-degrees F.

Lightly spoon flour into dry measuring cups; level with a knife. Combine flour, sugar, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon in a food processor. Add butter and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir in walnuts. Add milk mixture, and pulse until just until moist.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface (dough will be sticky); knead lightly 4 times with floured hands. Pat dough into an 8-inch circle on a baking sheet coated with cooking spray. Cut dough into 8 wedges; do not separate. Brush the dough with remaining milk and sprinkle with remaining sugar. Bake for 20 minutes or until browned. Serve warm.

Serves 8.

Jacques Torres' Chocolate Chip Cookies

There are so many different types of chocolate chip cookies -- flat and crisp, puffy and cakey, the kinds you find in Italian bakeries, the kinds you get in cafeterias, the kinds you eat in your Mom's kitchen.

This is a cookie you might find in a coffee house, or more likely, Jacques Torres' retail shop.

What drew me to Torres' recipe was the unusual blend of flour in the recipe; it combines pastry and bread flour, resulting in a nicely chewy cookie. Additionally, the cookie has a good deal of butter, is slightly salty, and of course, is studded with quality chocolate chips.

It is a cookie that will have you going back to the cookie jar over and over again.

For a really impressive presentation, use a 1/4-cup measuring cup to scoop out the dough and press it into 1/4-inch thick disks. You can fit four of these on a standard baking sheet.

Jacqures Torres' Chocolate Chip Cookies (via MarthaStewart.com, slightly adapted)

1 pound unsalted butter
1 3/4 cups granulated sugar
2 1/4 cups packed light-brown sugar
4 large eggs
3 cups plus 2 tablespoons pastry flour
3 cups bread flour
1 tablespoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
2 pounds 60-percent cocoa chocolate or other best-quality semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

Preheat oven to 350-degrees F; line baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together butter and sugars. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Reduce speed to low and add both flours, baking powder, baking soda and vanilla; mix until well combined. Fold in chocolate, making sure to distribute well.

Using a 4-ounce scoop for larger cookies or a 1-ounce scoop for smaller cookies, scoop cookie dough onto prepared baking sheets, about 2 inches apart. Bake until lightly browned, but still soft, about 20 minutes for larger cookies and about 15 minutes for smaller cookies. Cool slightly on baking sheets before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely.

Yields 26, 5-inch cookies or 100, 1 1/4-inch cookies.

Food Notes on the Taste of New York Lounge at NYWCC

Last night, Jenny, Shane and I headed down to the New York Wine and Culinary Center’s Taste of New York Lounge for a light dinner and drinks.

There was a bit of a shake-up in the kitchen: Chef Dan Martello, who had been at the NYWCC since its debut (if I recall correctly) and had been the chef at 2 Vine prior, recently left the Culinary Center to start his own restaurant. According to Reggie, one of the NYWCC’s best servers, the restaurant (to be named “Good Luck”) will open up in the Village Gate next month.

I’m really looking forward to seeing what Martello turns out; my hope is that he sticks with his NYWCC roots and makes ample use of local products.

The new chef, Chef Carlos, (the NYWCC website has not yet updated its chef information so I don’t have Carlos’ last name) debuted his menu last night (also NOT updated on the website – get on that, Culinary Center IT department). While the menu combines old Taste of NY Lounge favorites with new Chef Carlos creations, the dishes we received were disappointing.

I ordered my favorite Taste of NY Lounge salad – bibb and iceberg lettuce with pancetta, pepperoncini, chick peas and blue cheese – and was give a salad 50- to 65-percent smaller than what I’d gotten in the past. There were fewer pepperoncinis (even taking into consideration the reduced portion size) and it tasted as though the chef swapped out the fantastic Old Chatham “Ewe’s Blue” cheese for a less tasty product. I enjoyed my salad, but not as much as I have in the past.

Shane and Jenny were also disappointed with their orders. Shane received a plate of 6 raw oysters topped with a pink peppercorn mignonette sauce and julienne cucumber; he found the whole concoction bitter and lacking in oyster flavor. Jenny ordered a mixed green salad with smoked pork, grilled apples and apple cider vinaigrette; the pork looked and tasted like chopped smoked turkey cold cuts, there were very few apples and the vinaigrette was nearly nonexistent.

Shane also ordered a rack of lamb (perhaps better termed lollipop-style lamb chops; there were four) coated with a mustard seed rub, and plated on top of mashed peas mixed with mint and, perhaps, parsley. The dish was presented beautifully and the vibrant green of the peas was striking against the white of the plate and meaty redness of the chops. Although Shane enjoyed his dish, he ordered it medium-rare and received rare lamb.

The desserts were disappointing as well. The lemon yogurt cake was sliced far too thin (between 1/8- and ¼ -inch thick), although given that cake was dry, perhaps this wasn’t such a bad thing. (Actually the dessert – both in flavor and texture -- reminded me of some Italian-style cakes I’ve enjoyed, but the name of the dessert belied what was offered; the description should have presented a more accurate depiction of the dessert.)

I ordered a black and white chocolate mousse: a layer of dark chocolate mousse topped with a layer white chocolate mousse. It was overly light (the white chocolate portion reminded me of marshmallow fluff) and lacked any real chocolate punch.

This is a pretty damning review, and perhaps unfairly so. Last night was Chef Carlos’ first serving his menu and, like anyone at a new job, it takes a while to hit one’s stride. My plan is to head back to the Tasting Room towards the end of July and see if things have improved. I can’t imagine that the Culinary Center would hire a less-than-talented chef, so I’m hopeful that Chef Carlos will be turning out stellar quality food very soon.

Even though the food was not where we wanted it to be, the service was impeccable. Tom, our waiter, was attentive, helpful and friendly and not only worked with the bartender and me to turn out some great cocktails, but he even helped us settle a (ok, stupid) question: “How old is Sarah Jessica Parker?” (Shane said 50; I said 42 or 43 – guess who was right?)

It’s really nice to develop a rapport with the person who is waiting on you ; not only do you, as diners, get great service and recommendations, but as the server is the public face of a restaurant, s/he can positively, or negatively, affect a customer’s perception of the establishment. I can’t help but think that we wouldn’t have enjoyed last night as much as we did if Tom weren’t so fun and accommodating.

I was in the mood for cocktails – something fun and summery, served up in a martini glass – but the culinary center did away with its (modest) cocktail menu. So I asked Tom to talk to Erin, the bartender, and see if she’d recommend something. According to Tom, Erin very happy at the request and the result were some delicious drinks. The first was a pineapple coconut martini and, I can’t be sure, but I think it was a simple mix of pineapple juice with Malibu rum -- it was fabulous. The second was Erin’s own concoction – a Tropical Breeze. Her first try had a bit of a bite at the finish, so she tried again and the result was amazing. I won’t give all her secrets away, but I’ll say that her Tropical Breeze had light rum, peach schnapps, and an assortment of fruit juices in it. Simply delicious.

So while I’ll be waiting a couple of months before having dinner at the Tasting Room again, it won’t be long before I head down to the culinary center for a drink and a little nibble.

Pecan Pie Cupcakes

First Jennifer made them. Then Doodles. Now me. All of us loved them and, if you bake up a batch, you'll see why.

Chewy little bites of pecan pie goodness -- with nutty, buttery, and caramelized sugar notes -- delivered to your mouth in a tiny cake. Light yet satisfying, they're a perfect way to end a big meal when you want something small, simple and sweet.

Pecan Pie Cupcakes (adapted from Recipezaar.com)
1 cup chopped pecans
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup packed brown sugar
2/3 cup butter, melted
2 eggs

Preheat oven to 350-degrees F. Liberally grease a miniature muffin tin with butter or non-stick cooking spray; set aside.

Combine all ingredients and mix well; fill each muffin cup 2/3 full. Bake 18 to 22 minutes or until golden brown. Cool and enjoy!

Yields 24 mini cupcakes.

PB Cinnamon Raisin Oatmeal Cookies

Several months ago, I fell in love with Peanut Butter & Co.'s Cinnamon Raisin Swirl. I can't fully explain it, but the combination of warm cinnamon, sweet raisins and savory peanut butter drove my taste buds delirious with happiness. For many a breakfast, I'd spread some on a slice of toasted wheat bread, drizzle it with a bit of local honey, and munch away.

When I came back from London, I brought back a few tins of Harrods biscuits, among them the Honey & Oat variety. One afternoon around 3pm (my daily sugar craving time) I went into the kitchen, opened the cupboard and saw the Harrods biscuits sitting next to the Cinnamon Raisin Swirl PB.

A match made in kitchen heaven. The peanut butter paired with the sweet oat biscuit beautifully. So beautifully that I knew I had to create a cookie that had it all.

I finally did. And they're delicious, either with a glass of cold milk or a cup of hot tea.

PB Cinnamon Raisin Oatmeal Cookies

8 Tbsp. (one stick) unsalted butter
1 cup packed light brown sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoons vanilla
1 cup peanut butter
1 cup flour
1 cup old-fashioned oats
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2/3 cup raisins
1/4 teaspoon salt

Set oven rack to the middle position and preheat oven to 350-degrees F. Line three baking sheets with parchment paper; set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream butter and brown sugar. Add eggs, vanilla and peanut butter and beat until combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add dry ingredients EXCEPT raisins; blend. Fold in raisins by hand. Using a cookie dough scoop, form dough into tablespoon sized balls. Flatten dough balls to 1/4-inch thickness using the bottom of a drinking glass.

Bake for 10 to 12 minutes or until golden brown. Cool cookies on a cooling rack; store in an airtight container for up to one week.

Edible Finger Lakes Debuts!

It showed up in my mailbox today.




The debut issue of Edible Finger Lakes! Jam packed with Finger Lakes foodie goodness: Wine family at MacGregor Vineyard! Farming at Red Tail Farm! Professional Sausage Making! Cooking and Eating Locally! And ... an article by yours truly on local CSAs!

The magazine looks fabulous; I can't wait to see what future issues hold. Congratulations to everyone involved, especially Zoe Becker and Michael Welch, editor and publisher of EFL!

Sugar Plums Dancing in My Head, Ed. #2

A recurring (maybe) compendium of serious and frivolous thoughts bouncing through my brain at any given moment.

The Serious: SweetMachine at Shapely Prose points to this link featuring a portfolio of celebrity pictures before and after retouching. She points out how ridiculous, unhealthy, and unrealistic Mass Media’s beauty standards are, both for women and men. She writes:

That portfolio is a glorious example of the impossible beauty standard: Kelly Clarkson has been shrunk, while Julia Stiles has been filled in; Beyonce’s hips have been redrawn to erase a muffintop, while Eva Longoria’s hips have been curved up and out. Looking through all these photos, I get the eerie feeling that they’ve stolen flesh from one woman only to add it to another.

This is the quintessential operation of the beauty “ideal”: it is just that, an idea, sold to us as something to strive for not despite but because it is impossible.
Even the women who look like that don’t look like that! The outrage of this is not only that people who are not models or actors are held to a standard that constantly moves to something less real, but also that models themselves are forced to maintain unfeasible weights (often via verbal abuse and threats of unemployment) and then are demonized for it, making the fashion industry even more exploitative than it already was. You must be skinny and curvy at once, tiny and voluptuous, recognizably yourself but without the the lines and planes and wrinkles of your own body.

Take a look at the portfolio, and then think about how this sort of artifice affects you and everyone around you. (On a lighter note, if they’re doing this for regular magazine pics, imagine how they’re manipulating pornographic images…)

The Frivolous: Last week, I pulled out all my spring & summer clothes and organized them into “keep” and “toss” piles. This is not always easy as I have an emotional attachment to some things (like the navy blue J. Crew polo dress I bought probably 10 years ago that’s faded, and baggy, and even has a couple of bleach spots and still got another 11th hour call from the governor and went back into my drawer) but by and large the effort was successful.

The toss pile is going to a local consignment shop on Thursday and hopefully, I’ll get a few bucks . Everything is in great or excellent condition, but they’re items that are too big on me, or don’t really work with my body type, or fall into the “what was I thinking when I bought that?” category.

(I did put an item on eBay – a dress of Sadie’s she outgrew – but as virtually no one has viewed the damn thing, much less bid on it, I think I’ll be more successful at the consignment shop.)

As for the items that I’m keeping, I’m trying to figure out where the gaps in my wardrobe are and fill those holes with good stuff. In the past I’ve just bought things that I liked, which resulted in a lot of nice pieces that don’t work together; it’s a habit I’m trying to break.

I was able to pick up a versatile pair of white Banana Republic pants last week at the outlet mall (only $36!) and they’re now at the tailor’s being hemmed to fit my dauchshound-short legs (an additional $9, but completely worth it).

I also picked up a layering piece to put under a low cut green dress. (It's this top but redesigned as a dress with a knee length hem. I got it for $39 when it retailed for $188 - whoo!) I hate using tanks or camis as a layer so I ordered a bandeau (fine, tube top) in white from American Apparel with the hopes that it will give me the coverage I’m looking for without extra layers. We’ll see how it fits…

Sweet Soy-Grilled Short Ribs

Check out my step-by-step instructions for this recipe (with lots of pictures) on Instructables.com.

The weather was so beautiful here on Saturday: bright sunny skies, warm weather (80-degrees in APRIL!), trees and flowers blooming, so we had our neighbors, Chris & Shelly, over for a little barbecue.

How could we not grill up some ribs? Mmm ... ribs.

These guys are sweet and tangy, with Oyster and soy sauces in the glaze helped along by fresh garlic, ginger, and scallions. Everything is enhanced by the grill -- flame-broiled goodness!

Sweet Soy-Grilled Short Ribs
1 cup sugar
3/4 cup Chinese oyster sauce
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup sake (Japanese rice wine), Chinese rice wine, or dry sherry
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 piece (1 inch) peeled fresh ginger, minced
2 scallions, white parts minced, green parts thinly sliced
About 3 pounds beef short ribs

Slice the short ribs into 1/2-inch pieces. If you can find bone-in short ribs, use them. But if you can only get the boneless variety (which is what happened to me) buy them anyway! Once you've cut the ribs into 1/2-inch portions, place them in a Tupperware container with a tight fitting lid. (This will help with marinating later on.)

In a small mixing bowl, add sugar, oyster sauce, soy sauce, sake (or wine or sherry), garlic, and the whites of the scallions. Whisk or stir with a fork until well blended. Pour the marinade over the ribs, seal container tightly with its lid, and marinate in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours. Halfway through your marinating time, flip the container upside down to allow the marinade to penetrate all of the meat. (If you don't have a Tupperware container, simply place the meat in a bowl with the marinade and cover with plastic wrap. Halfway through the marinating time, re-adjust the ribs, moving them around in the marinade for even coverage.)

When ready to cook, preheat your grill to high. Check the heat using the "Mississippi test" -- hold your hand about three inches above the grill grate; when the fire is at the right heat, you should only be able to count two or three Mississippis before you have to pull your hand away. Oil the grill grate (use long tongs to hold an oil-dipped cloth) and place ribs on grill. Cook until the ribs are done to your preference (about 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium) and nicely browned. Your ribs could cook more quickly, or take more time. So KEEP AN EYE ON THEM, especially if you're using the boneless variety of short ribs. When ready, move ribs from the grill to a bowl, platter or plates, sprinkle the scallion greens, serve and enjoy!

Carrot Soufflé

You know what's delicious?

Carrot soufflé.

To be honest, it's not a real souffle, but it does have a light and airy mouth feel similar to its namesake. It's also sweet, colorful, packed with vitamins and --most importantly-- flavor.

If you're not a sweet side-dish kind of person --you shun candied yams at Thanksgiving, for instance --this recipe will not float your boat. (I wonder, though, if you could simply remove the sugar and come up with a more savory result that maintains the texture ... If anyone gives that a try, let me know!)

But if you do love sweet sides, run to the store (or, is your local the farmers' market open yet?) and stock up on ingredients. It's that good.

Carrot Soufflé (adapted)

2 pounds of carrots, chopped
2/3 c. granulated sugar
1/4 c. fat-free sour cream
3 Tbsp. flour
2 Tbsp. melted butter
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 large eggs, lightly beaten

Preheat oven to 350-degrees F. Grease a 2-quart baking dish or a 10-inch pie plate; set aside.

Boil carrots for 15 minutes or until very tender; drain. Place carrots in a food processor and process until smooth. Add the rest of the ingredients and pulse to combine.

Spoon mixture into prepared dish and bake for 40 minutes or until puffed and set. Serve warm.

Serves 8.

Sugar Plums Dancing in My Head, Ed. #1

So pretty! Read on to find out who made it and how to make one, too.

I have no idea how this is going to turn out in the long run, or how frequently this will appear, but I thought it might be fun to do a round up of things I’ve spotted online; things that have got me thinking, making, wanting, and occasionally, lusting after. True to (my) form, these ideas range from very serious to extremely frivolous. Here we go:

Barbara at Tigers & Strawberries discusses the many ways corporate restaurants waste food:

Most corporate chain restaurants, coffee shops, bakeries and the like have a very strict policy of dumping this perfectly good food out into the dumpster, which is often locked and behind enclosures in order to keep enterprising individuals from “harvesting” or saving this food. (If these enclosed or locked bins tampered with, even by a hungry person, they can then be arrested and charged not with just vandalism for breaking the locks, but for breaking and entering and theft. Imagine being charged with stealing garbage–the whole point of garbage is that the former owner of it no longer wants it, so why is it illegal for someone else to take it before it is heaped into a landfill?) Employees who are caught taking food of this kind home or eating it, or donating it are treated as thieves and are often fired.

Barbara's analysis is thoughtful, lucidly-written, and illuminating.

A few weeks ago, Shane and I had a little debate on whether money could buy happiness; my thought was "no" and Shane's was, "I've never been rich; how could I possibly know?" The theory of money not buying happiness was supported in a mid-1970's study by Richard Easterlin, then an economist at the University of Pennsylvania, although to be fully truthful, Easterlin argued the more subtle point that economic growth doesn’t necessarily lead to more satisfaction.

A new paper rebuts Easterlin's argument. In it, Betsey Stevenson and Justin Wolfers (economists who are also from the University of Pennsylvania) argue that money does tend to bring happiness, if not guarantee it. To quote the New York Times' article:

If anything, Ms. Stevenson and Mr. Wolfers say, absolute income seems to matter more than relative income. In the United States, about 90 percent of people in households making at least $250,000 a year called themselves “very happy” in a recent Gallup Poll. In households with income below $30,000, only 42 percent of people gave that answer. But the international polling data suggests that the under-$30,000 crowd might not be happier if they lived in a poorer country.

I think it's pretty obvious that humans have needs that must be met and, in our current economic and governmental system, you need money to be able to meet those needs. But we also live in a society that values consumerism -- so it doesn't surprise me that people who make $250,000+ annually say they are happy; they've got lots of money, so they can buy lots of stuff (in fact, they have to buy lots of stuff to follow the norms of their socio-economic group) and consumerism teaching us that buying and having is what makes us happy (and maybe even worthy). If we weren't so obsessed with buying, buying, buying, and what that represented, would we view money as so important?

As for the statement that "the international polling data suggests that the under-$30,000 crowd might not be happier if they lived in a poorer country" I wish there was more clarification. Which poorer country are we talking about? What sort of social benefits to citizens get? What are the social norms of this country? Etc., etc.

These ideas, and many, many others, are being debated in the NYT's comment section; please take a look. (If you're not a registered member, head over to Bug Me Not for a username and password.)

I'm not a Chris Matthews fan (I saw him in person once while covering a local news story) but reading this piece (another NYTimes piece, this time in its Sunday magazine) just made me feel bad for him. He was on The Colbert Report Monday night and it's clear that this is a man with a desperate need to be thought well of. Consequently, he marinates in flop sweat constantly.

On a lighter note, maybe it’s spring – I don’t know -- but I suddenly have a massive urge to be crafty (in the let’s-paint-a-picture way, not the Machiavellian sense.) Unfortunately, many of the craft projects I’m initially attracted to don’t even get started because I think, “what am I going to do with this thing when it’s done?” Do I need a cross-stitched pillow, even an alternative one? Where would I wear jewelry made from poultry products?

Still, I am in search of the great creative project that will be ultimately functional. I don’t really need another USB drive but taking one apart to put it into a Lego brick casing, or turn on into a tromp l'oeil eraser is very appealing. (I spent way too much time on Instructables yesterday, and I think it’s going t happen again today. They even have a food section!)

I love Angie’s project on The {New New} York Etsy Street Team to turn aluminum cans into jewelry (pictured at the top of this post.) If you didn’t know the origin, you’d never have guessed what it was made from; it just looks lovely, minimalist, and modern. Now all I have to do is figure out how to get my hands on an eyelette setter and disc/stamping... In case I can't, though, I can just pick one up at Angie's Brooklynsoul Etsy store.

Chicken Picadillo

First al fresco dining opportunity of the season!

I love cinnamon. It's warm, rich and spicy; I'm absolutely obsessed with it when baked in sweets. Cinnamon and sugar is a natural, but the depth it adds to chocolate (or chocolate and dark coffee; mmm...) or mixed in with the fruity notes from cardamom -- I just love it all.

But I rarely cook with it; that is, I don't often add it to savory dishes. But it's delicious here in Chicken Picadillo. The peppery spice from the salsa pairs beautifully with the cinnamon. The raisins in the dish hint at cinnamon's sweet uses but those notes don't overwhelm the other flavors but play off them nicely.

I paired this with rice and beans (sauteed some garlic and onions in a pan, added two cans of black beans and mixed it in with a cup or two of cooked rice) but you can use it with tortillas for a twist on tacos.

Chicken Picadillo (adapted)

1 pound skinless, boneless chicken thighs (or 1 pound ground chicken)
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup bottled salsa
1/3 cup raisins (regular or golden)

If using chicken thighs, place in a food processor and pulse until ground.

Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add chicken, cumin, salt, cinnamon, and garlic, and cook for 3 minutes or until chicken is done, stirring frequently. Stir in salsa and raisins, then cover, reduce heat, and simmer until thoroughly heated (about 5 minutes).

Serves 4.

Salmon with Agrodolce sauce

This is a very impressive, delicious dish -- if you like salmon, that is -- that takes very little effort. I was especially in love with the look and texture of the crust; it's a gorgeous deep-gold color and lends the fish an appealing crunch. I served this along with piselli con asparagi e basilico .

Note: be sure to finish the sauce with a pat of butter, or risk an overly acidic sauce.


Salmon with Agrodolce sauce (adapted)

3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
4 (6-ounce) salmon fillets (1 inch thick) with skin
2 medium red or sweet yellow onions (about 1 pound total), cut into wedges
2/3 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tsp. sugar
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Pat salmon dry and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Place salmon skin side up into the hot pan and cook until undersides form a golden crust, about 12 to 15 minutes. Turn fish over and cook until just cooked through, about 3 minutes more.

Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a separate skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Sauté onions until golden brown and crisp-tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in vinegar, sugar, and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook until sauce is syrupy, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in butter.

Spoon onions with sauce onto plates and top with salmon, skin side down.

Serves 4.

Piselli con Asparagi e Basilico (asparagus, peas, and basil)

It might actually be Spring.

I'm not totally committed to that idea yet, because I live in Upstate New York and we had several inches of snow on the ground about two weeks ago, but I am hopeful. The sun is shining, the birds are singing, and it's supposed to get up to 68-degrees tomorrow.

My hope is further pushed along by fresh asparagus, tender peas, and hand torn basil. So simple, so green, so delicious.

Piselli con Asparagi e Basilico (asparagus, peas, and basil -- adapted)

1/4 cup finely chopped yellow onion

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 bunches of asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
3/4 pound shelled fresh peas (2 1/2 cups; 1 3/4 pound in pods) or 1 (10-ounce) package thawed frozen peas
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
Handful of torn basil leaves (about 3/4 cup)

In a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat, cook onions in butter, stirring frequently until just tender, about 4 minutes.

Stir in asparagus, peas, sea salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper, then seal skillet with foil. Cook over medium heat until vegetables are tender but still slightly al dente, about 8 minutes. Stir in basil and sea salt to taste.

New York Style Crumb Cake

When I was very little, I would ride with my parents from Long Island to NYC; my parents would go to work, and I would stay at my grandma's house until they returned. We'd usually stop at a coffee truck pulled over on the side of the road and grab breakfast: for me, a carton of chocolate milk and a slab of crumb cake. I would ignore the cake's base (more of a sweet bread than a cake anyway) in favor of the sugary crumbs.

It's something I hadn't thought about in years until watching Cooks Illustrated's podcast on New York Style crumb cake -- and then I had to make it.

The result is a moist, dense (but not heavy) cake base topped by heaps -- and I mean heaps -- of brown sugar crumbs. This recipe does not skimp on the crumb topping; even after you slice the cake into pieces and chunks of topping fall onto the platter, your piece of cake still has a generous crumb cover.

The one thing I would change is the amount of cinnamon used in the crumb. Although the cinnamon flavor intensified the next day (and the day after that) I still would have liked a greater cinnamon punch. Next time, I'd probably add three tablespoons to the crumbs, taste them, and adjust accordingly.

Overall, however, a nice tribute to the NY Style Crumb Cake.




New York-Style Crumb Cake (adapted)

Crumb Topping
2/3 cup granulated sugar
2/3 cup brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon (or way more -- 3 Tbsp. -- to taste)
1/4 teaspoon table salt
16 tablespoons unsalted butter (2 sticks), melted and still warm
3 1/2 cups cake flour

Cake
2 1/2 cups cake flour
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon table salt
12 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 ½ sticks), cut into 12 pieces, softened)
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2/3 cup buttermilk
Confectioners' sugar for dusting


For the crumb topping, mix together sugars, cinnamon, salt, and butter in medium bowl to combine. Add flour and stir with rubber spatula or wooden spoon until mixture resembles thick, cohesive dough; set aside to cool to room temperature, 10 to 15 minutes.

For the cake, adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and preheat to 325-degrees F. Line a 13x9 pan with a parchment paper sling (spray the pan with cooking spray, lay in a sheet of parchment, pushing it into corners and up sides, allowing excess to overhang edges of dish.

In bowl of standing mixer fitted with paddle attachment, mix flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt on low speed to combine. With mixer running at low speed, add butter one piece at a time; continue beating until mixture resembles moist crumbs, with no visible butter chunks remaining, 1 to 2 minutes. Add egg, yolk, vanilla, and buttermilk; beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 1 minute, scraping once if necessary.

Transfer batter to baking pan; using rubber spatula, spread batter into even layer. Form crumb topping into large pea-sized pieces and spread in even layer over batter, beginning with outer edges and then working toward center. Bake until crumbs are golden and wooden skewer inserted into center of cake comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Cool on wire rack at least 30 minutes. Remove cake from pan by lifting parchment overhang. Dust with confectioners' sugar just before serving.

Spaghetti Harvest

Happy April Fool's Day.



More info on the Spaghetti tree.
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PS: I know this is another Google joke, but wouldn't it be great if it were real?